Epiphanies in the Catacombs

In which I put my thinking cap on.

I know I promised a definitive “Best of Paris” list was coming up—and rest assured, said list is arriving soon…soon-ish…somewhere in the soon-ish future...oh, bother.

I have a confession to make. There are several reasons why I left my “best of” lists to the end. One, because I am much more qualified to call myself a Paris expert now than I was nine-and-a-half months ago.

Two? Well, this is my mourning process. Or my detachment process, to be more accurate. Once you are able to condense the past nine-and-a-half months of your life into neat little lists with pithy descriptions and matching pictures, you are able to turn them into a vacation, albeit a lengthy, foreign one. And you can pretend you are preparing for a homecoming, and not a home-leaving.

Because Paris is, nine-and-a-half months later, my home. Paris, in all its prickly, quixotic, illogical glory, is my home. How strange to say that! And yet, my home is still my home. So do I have two homes? And when I graduate next year and end up somewhere else, will I then have three homes? How many homes can you have before they don’t count as homes anymore? And how long can you be away from your home before it stops being home?

I also want to muse on that number, nine-and-a-half months. A baby is conceived, developed, and delivered in nine-and-a-half months. An entire being, made up of roughly 5 trillion cells, that for better or for worse is going to fundamentally alter its mother’s life. A being that is both entirely unique, and entirely you (or at least, if I remember my biology classes correctly, half of you).

To extend this strange metaphor just a bit further, I would like to think that everyone who came to Paris delivered a baby this year: their own, unique Paris experience. We planned. We pondered. We even obtained credentials (yes, thank you, French consulate). Paris arrived, and we fell in love. And out of love. And in love again. Strangling was probably at some point considered. Sometimes we stared at each others’ experiences and wondered if we were doing this all wrong.

And now, nine-and-a-half months later, it is time to late Paris go.

Not quite yet (hence, my putting off the inevitable “Definitive Best of Paris” list).

And no, not forever.

* * *

I should explain the title of this post.

I have been trying to visit the Paris Catacombs since two summers ago. It shouldn’t have been this hard. I live a five-minute walk away. But the Catacomb line, in terms of sheer slowness, might be the worst in Paris. The Catacombs close at 5 p.m., and if you aren’t there by 2 p.m., you won’t get in.

So, after arriving twenty minutes before opening and still waiting a good forty minutes to get in, my friend Julia and I embarked on a two-kilometer journey, 20 meters (or 66 feet) below street-level. After three-quarters of an hour walking through dark, dripping tunnels lined with artfully arranged human skulls and tibias and reading quote after quote of depressing musings on life’s pointlessness and death’s inevitability, I was feeling a bit down.

Please don’t let me dissuade you from going. The whole experience is rather awesome. I even hear of raves in different, non-tourist parts of the Catacombs. But make sure you have someone to laugh with.

Anyway, the point (which I have been taking a long time to make) is this: I don’t agree with these quotes. Not one bit. Yes, life can be all too short. Even long lives are mere blips on the spectrum of time. And yes, we will all die, and no one (and I mean no one) knows what happens next.

But I also think life is beautiful. The very fact that we can all breathe and think and communicate and feel things is, quite simply, a miracle.

As I read my daily news and sometimes wonder why this world is so frighteningly idiotic, and as I walk around Paris on one of my last nights here and panic, because why didn’t I make just a bit more of my experience, and maybe my life in general, and oh, God, I’m getting old, I have to breathe deep and realize that the very act of breathing is a tiny miracle, too.

And, more importantly, that I am so, so lucky. I’ve spent this year being young in one of the greatest cities in the world, and quite a few other bits of Europe as well. I am healthy, whole, and happy. And I am ready to stare down those long-dead writers who thought such depressing things and say, aren’t you forgetting about the actual living part of life?

So, dear readers, here’s to living. And thank you for sticking with me for so long.

A few of the more thoughtful quotes:

Translation: "They were what we are.
Dust, playthings of the wind. Fragile as men.
Feeble as the newborn." - Lamartine

Where is she, Death? Always future or past.
Hardly is she present before she is no more.

*All Catacombs photo credit goes to Julia. 

Best of: Views

Because I am all about the views.

1. Eiffel Tower – Well, of course. Best done at night, preferably not in rain and wind. Try a picnic on the Champs de Mars at sunset, then climb or take the elevator up for a view of nighttime Paris.

Night view from the Eiffel Tower

2. Tour Montparnasse – The second Paris tower. The saying goes that this is the best view in Paris, because 1) it actually includes the Eiffel Tower and 2) it doesn’t include the Tour Montparnasse.

Sunset from la Tour Montparnasse

3. L’Arc de Triomphe – Another wonderful night view, although it closes at 10 p.m. It affords the perfect shot of the Champs Elysées at night (which is better seen from afar anyway). More importantly, you get a chance to watch the crazy French drivers using the roundabout below.

View of the Arc de Triomphe from the Champs Elysees

4. Palais de Chaillot – Directly across the river from the Eiffel Tower, this is the place to gather for the hourly light show. The hands-down best view of the Eiffel Tower, Chaillot is always packed on weekend nights.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Palais de
 Chaillot (with SNOW!)

5. La Grande Arche de la Défense – This is not technically in Paris, situated at the heart of the business district west of the city. La Grande Arche is actually a view in its own right, an avant-garde silver giant that dwarfs the (admitted enormous) Arc de Triomphe.

6. Galeries Lafayette (Haussmann Boulevard) – One of the main shopping centers in Paris, Galeries Lafayette also has a nice little rooftop café with a terrace that is just lovely at sunset.

7. Montmartre – (also see Top 10, coming soon!) Montmartre is a hill (hence the name), so come on a clear day for a stunning vantage point of the city. Although you sometimes have to get a bit creative, as the best views are not necessarily from the iconic front side.

I spy with my little eye...

Montmartre in the sun

8. The Bridges – In a city where almost every famous site is right next to the Seine, you can’t go wrong on the bridges. The most famous is probably the ornate Alexandre III, in between Place de la Concorde and les Invalides. But check out some of the lock bridges, where lovers kiss and fasten locks to the railings. My absolute favorite bridge, though, is Passerelle Debilly, the white pedestrian bridge right near the Eiffel Tower (because, when you look for views in Paris, you’re really just looking for views of the Eiffel Tower).

Best of: Miscellaneous and Hidden Favorites

This is a random, not-very-well-thought-out list of all my favorites that I couldn't fit anywhere else (and are often a bit off the beaten track). Anyone up for a Paris scavenger hunt?

1. Deyrolles – I am little obsessed with this store. Don’t ask me why. Maybe I just like getting in touch with my inner science geek (who knew I had one?). This taxidermy store on Rue du Bac dates back to the 1900s, and the interior reflects that Belle Époque sensibility. Sadly, many of their best pieces got cleared out a few months back, but they should fill up again. Note to animal lovers: most of the animals used are from zoos, and all died of disease or old age.

Dinner, anyone?

Papillons

2. Shakespeare & Co. – The original, and the best, English bookstore in Paris, host of many illustrious writers and set of the opening scene of one of my all-time favorite movies, Before Sunset. For me, this shop is defined by its countless personal touches. The perfect place to get lost in for an hour (or two, or six).

The pilgrim has arrived!

Shakespeare and Company

Translation: “We need places like this to remind ourselves
to what extent Paris is a city of art and of openness.”

3. Markets – There is no Paris experience I love quite so much as walking through a street market. My absolute favorite markets are the Raspail marché biologique, every Sunday on Blvd Raspail in the 6^th arrondissement, and the Saturday Edgar Quinnet market, on Rue Edgar Quinnet in the 14th. Give yourself time to wander through, ogle the food products, buy a scarf or two, and try some of the free samples. I always exit feeling like time temporarily stopped.

Halloween at the market!

4. Rue Île Saint-Louis – The main—well, only—road on the second island in Paris, right past Île de la Cité, is lined with restaurants, boutiques, and food places. There are very few cars, and if you feel like you slipped into a far older section of Paris, you have. Don’t miss Berthillon, the best ice cream place in Paris!

5. The Marais – Possibly my favorite section of Paris (so many to choose from!), the Marais is a collection of old, cobblestone streets and beautiful historic buildings. The entire neighborhood is packed with restaurants, shops, and art galleries. It is also home of Rue des Rosiers, the most famous Jewish section of Paris, and has a growing young gay population and nightlife.

Garden of the Carnavalet Museum
in the Marais

6. Père Lachaise – The largest and most famous cemetery in Paris, Père Lachaise in the 20^th arrondissement may seem a strange destination. But it’s reputed to be the most visited cemetery in the world. Admirers of Balzac, Chopin, Jim Morrison, Proust, Molière, Gertrude Stein, and Oscar Wilde flock here to wander through the cemetery’s twisty paths to find their gravesites. Always an experience, and a short metro ride from Belleville, Paris’ Chinatown.

Best of: Food (Part 3)

This list, in particular, reflects a student budget. That being said, I stand by everything on this list as an excellent option. Also check out David Lebovitz or Paris By Mouth for more ideas!

Wisdom from the one and only Julia.

1. L’Éléphant du Nil – A friend introduced me to this place in the Marais, and it’s become a consistent favorite. Small, affordable, and run by the friendliest wait staff in Paris, this is also a great option for those wanting to explore the Marais at night. Rue Saint-Paul.

2. Le Petit Josselin – One of the best crêpe place I’ve been to in Paris, this authentic Bretonne crêperie is tiny and packed, in the best way possible. La Crêperie Bretonne across the street is also an excellent option. Rue Montparnasse.

3. La Cidrerie du Marais – Yes, yet another crêpe place. Why not? As with all the best crêpe restaurants, La Cidrerie is cute and intimate (or, depending on your view, cramped), and the service has been unfailingly friendly. I am a huge fan of their boudin noir, or blood sausage, crêpe. Rue de Sévigné.

3. Le Galvacher – The site of our Christmas Eve triumph. I haven’t been back, mostly because it is so far away and, well, I’m a poor college student. But I will never forget that Vacherin cheese. Le Galvacher also have two sister restaurants, Au Petit Marguery and Chez Françoise, which I hear are equally (if not more) delectable. Avenue des Ternes.

4. L’Hydrophobe – This restaurant on Arago has obligingly hosted our program dinners all year, with unfailingly delectable results. The wine selections are also excellent.

5. Le Severo – Small, packed, occasionally grumpy, and serving the best meat I’ve encountered in Paris, Le Severo is a great off-the-beaten-path bistro for the hungry carnivore. Rue des Plantes.

6. Rue Mouffetard – If in doubt, go to Rue Mouffetard. This meandering cobblestone road on the Left Bank is lined with restaurants and food stories of all kinds. Some establishments are merely decent, but for a good and affordable prix fixe meal, this is one of your best bets.

Best of: Food (Part 2)

 Paris may be the city of lights, love, and the Eiffel Tower, but we all know what this city is really about: baked goods. Here is a selection of my favorite breads, pastries, and dessert places in Paris, each tested and tasted with loving care.

1. Ladurée – The original French macarons, this little cream-filled wafers come in ever-changing flavors that pack a huge punch. Located at Place de la Madeleine, the Champs Elysées, and Rue Bonaparte.

(Image credit: www.laduree.fr)

2. Berthillon – This little salon at the end of Ile Saint-Louis serves up ice cream masterpieces that surpass anything else like it in Paris. Make sure you go to real Berthillon, and not to one of the many cafés selling their ice cream on the same road.

3. La Parisienne – Located in the Latin Quarter on Rue Monge, they might have my favorite Parisian baguette (and their pastries aren’t shabby, either).

4. Eric Kayser – The one chain where quality does not suffer, Eric Kayser bakeries are located all over Paris, and each has their own particular specialties. The original is on Rue Monge. Warning: avoid the baguettes. The rest of their bread is extraordinarily good, but the baguettes are surprisingly substandard.

5. Le Moulin de la Vierge – I sadly haven’t been back here since our single, glorious encounter last September. Close to the Eiffel Tower on Rue Vercingétorix, their chocolate-almond croissants are to die for.

6. La Fournée d’Auguste Vavin – A late discovery on Vavin, near the Luxembourg gardens. Their bread is informally excellent, particularly their dark, multigrain brød, which is a bit of a novelty in white bread-obsessed Paris.

7. Georges Larnicol – Here, it’s all about the kouignettes, buttery, flaky swirls of deliciousness (and you can thank your lucky stars that they don’t sell the full-size Kouign Amann, Brittany’s version of heart failure). Take the time to marvel at the chocolate sculptures, too. Place Odéon.

8. Stohrer – The oldest patisserie in Paris, on Rue Montorgueil, everything they sell looks incredible. I wouldn’t know, having always gone straight for the chocolate éclairs, universally acknowledged as the best in Paris.

9. Rue de Rosiers – The “Jewish” road in the Marais, and the home of numerous bakeries selling challah, cheesecakes, rugelach, and bagels. My favorites are Sacha Finkelstein and Murciano.

10. Mosquée de Paris – I also covered this under “lunch spots,” so I am obviously a huge fan. In addition to the actual tea room/restaurant, the Mosquée has a beautiful little courtyard where visitors can enjoy Middle Eastern pastries and tea. Just beware of the birds!

 

Best of: Food (Part 1)

A short list of some of my favorite Parisian salons de thés, cafés, and lunch spots.

(Actually a very cute book)

1. Café Panis – Right across from Notre Dame, a really nice lunch option. Their croques and chocolate mousse are to die for. I also adore the thé gourmand option, which comes with a trio of tiny desserts.

2. Patisserie Viennoise – Also in the Latin Quarter, this is one of my go-to places for an affordable, fast, delicious lunch. Their lasagna and tarte milanaise are melt-in-your-mouth good, and they have a wonderfully rich hot chocolate (for dark chocolate lovers only). Open weekdays. Rue de l'Ecole-de-Médicine.

3. Au Vieux Colombier – A recent discovery, this café off Rue de Rennes has several things going for it: nice waiters, perfect people-watching windows, delicious hot chocolate, and, well, location. Good for shopping lunch breaks.

4. L’Art de Thé – Located right under my apartment building, this tea salon sent its delicious aromas wafting up the stairs every weekday morning this year. Despite its middle-of-nowhere location, word-of-mouth has made L’Art de Thé a raging lunchtime success. The tarts and desserts are endlessly inventive and change daily. Rue Campagne Première.

5. Mosquée de Paris – I have been to the Mosquée five times in the past five months, and it is universally excellent. Besides the famous mint tea, they serve traditional Middle Eastern dishes and pastries. The meat options are particularly well-done. Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire.

6. L’As du Falafel – This Lenny Kravitz-approved falafel joint in the Jewish Marais area is its own tourist attraction. Although I’m told that Chez Hanna’s up the road is actually a bit better, L’As du Falafel’s picnic-style atmosphere, cheerful (if harried) service, and, yes, the food make this well worth the wait. Rue des Rosiers.

7. Eric Kayser (Rue du Bac) – Actually known for their bread and pastries, this particular location also makes a cheap, fast lunch stop located right near Orsay and the Louvre. I am in love with their quiche.

Images from L'As du Falafel